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Poiret relaunches while Givenchy gets gritty

Mar 06,2018
A model wears a creation for Poiret ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris on Sunday. [AP/YONHAP]
PARIS - After an incredible 90-year hiatus, the famed house of iconic designer Paul Poiret - who freed women from corsets - has returned to the Paris runways for the Paris Fashion Week on Sunday.

It’s an incredible comeback for a design house considered to be among the most influential of the 20th century.

Paris-born Poiret’s house collapsed in the 1920s after the tumult of World War I changed the fashion business landscape - but his legacy lived on.

Poiret is credited with the revolutionary development of draping, in a departure from traditional tailoring and pattern-making, and is closely associated with the invention of the hobble skirt and harem pants.

Poiret’s relaunch is one of a number of revamped heritage houses in recent years including Vionnet and Schiaparelli.

Such a grand come back demands an equally grand display. Guests were treated to a dramatic “couture’’ presentation inside the historic nave of the westerly part of the former Louvre Palace.

The couturiere Yiqing Yin unveiled her debut ready-to-wear collection for the house famous for its loose, fluid silhouettes.

It was a resounding success.

Yin perfectly captured the spirit of Poiret, who banished the corset in his designs, in her 39 soft, gently flowing styles in a rich and varied color palette.

An enveloping loose shawl in white and gray was wrapped asymmetrically around the shoulders as the hem of a sparkly metallic dress peeped out.

An Oriental Chinese red satin pant suit beautifully captured the mood of the 1920s and Poiret’s penchant for styles of the East.

Yin, who was born in China, was in her element.

Yet the designs, which very much bore her fingerprint, were never overly reverential.

Yin used large bows and belts to cinch the waist in a contemporary style, showing that this Poiret woman lives firmly in the present day.

Sunday’s fall/winter collections, also included Givenchy and Valentino.

While designer Clare Waight Keller showed a brooding and gritty collection for Givenchy, with big fur coats with stylish markings, Valentino went for flowers and romance in its looks.

In a low-key Givenchy hoodie, actor Idris Elba joined forces with actress Elle Fanning in a blue Valentino gown.